A bunch of happy Baltic fools celebrate Vilnius'
Spring festival
The proximity and ease of getting to the Baltic States, as well as their desirability as a travel destination outside Russia, can hardly be overemphasized. The three Baltic capitals are closer to St Petersburg than Moscow is.
Tallinn might be the prettiest of the three (perhaps to the extent that you occasionally get the impression you're walking round an open-air museum), but Vilnius has the most vibrant feel about it.
Subject to continual invasion and occupation, most dramatically from the Germans and Soviets, it is a city affected as much by its recent history as much as its distant past.
Arriving unwittingly during the Spring Festival (March 2-3) turned out to be something of a mixed blessing.
While the abundant market stalls had a great deal to offer, especially the spring palm leaves that the entire population of Vilnius seemed to be carrying around, the hoards of people made it difficult to get our luggage down the narrow winding streets of the old town.
The subsiding crowds did eventually reveal a beautiful old town which would make for a pleasantly aimless few days' walking in itself.
Without the sometimes depressingly Scandinavian look of its Baltic sister Tallinn, Vilnius' old town also had a whole extra world more to explore.
Impossible to miss is the striking white main cathedral and bell tower, right in the center of Vilnius.
Looking almost Italian in its classical, rectangular form, it is founded on ancient pagan grounds originally dedicated to Perkinas, the god of thunder.
Inside it is bright and airy, without a candle or icon in sight. Behind the cathedral, the trek up Castle Hill is well worth it for a comprehensive view of the city.
Another surprise was the selection of Vilnius' restaurants and bars, which were impossible to cover in two days.
For something to eat, the wooden-interiored Prie Parlamento on Gedimino 46 and the candlelit The Pub on Dominikonu 9 were probably the best, with their impressive European menus.
The chocolate fudge brownies in Prie Parlamento are worth several overnight train journeys in themselves.
The Window and Bix provided less commercial, student atmospheres as well as good cheap food.
Accommodation in Vilnius proved to be no problem either, as the Litinterp Bed and Breakfast organization on Bernadinu 7-2 was able to find a room right in the center of town.
For less than $10 a night per person, we had a whole floor of an extremely well furnished house, breakfast and even a jacuzzi.
Yet Vilnius really seemed far more than a collection of pretty churches, winding streets and European- and American-style bars, as a walk up Gedimino Prospect to the Parliament building proved.
Behind this otherwise unremarkable building lie remnants of the barricades used during the failed Moscow putsch of early 1991. Also a part of recent history and on the same street is the KGB museum.
TRAINS
TRAVEL ADVICEleave daily from the Warsaw Station and a one-way ticket to Vilnius (you won't want to come back) costs around $30.
ACCOMMODATION
can be provided by the Litinterp Bed and Breakfast service on Bernadinu 7-2.
GUIDE BOOKS
"Vilnius In Your Pocket" is probably the best investment you'll make in Vilnius, with comprehensive information on hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions