Gangster fashion has inspired many imitators, but don't be fooled by all the track suits.
Over the last six years, "banditi" have become an integral part of our life. Sometimes those who are not even banditi dress like them, because gangster fashion is becoming vogue. Either way, it is easy to recognize those who might be working under the table.
The world of organized crime was formed in the late 1980s. Many sportsmen, mainly boxers and wrestlers, became gangsters after they lost their sports standings. Thus began the image of a criminal superhero -- fearless, brave, mighty and strong.
Because of their sporting background, the first Russian gangsters wore track suits, sports pants and leather jackets. They wore brightly colored coats -- raspberry or pea-green -- for business meetings. They also kept their skinhead haircuts, so people couldn't catch a hold of their hair in fights.
Once they made enough money to travel abroad, gangsters realized that the track shoes and garish jackets weren't the best way to get respect.
The first level of fashion is set by the heads of the gangs. The head can wear anything he wants, but usually buys clothes in very expensive shops or has them designed and made at his private tailors and dressmakers.
They have splendid Mercedes, Lincolns or Porsches. According to rank, they have a three-or-more story country house, built by specialists invited from abroad.
The next level in the criminal hierarchy is the brigade leader. These are the men who serve as the link between the higher and lower criminal ranks, and coordinate the actions of those under their command. They are usually the ones who collect payments from businesses for security.
Brigade leaders are well-dressed, but like other business people are usually too busy to worry about fashion, which is why they choose mostly what is widely advertised.
They like Rolex watches, Fahrenheit or Dior aftershaves and Versace clothes. Brigade leaders do not like classical suits and prefer to combine dark and light colors, wearing dark trousers and a light coat or vice versa.
They like shirts made from white silk and shoes with a blunt toe. They wear cashmere coats and have expensive leather jackets for work. They prefer Lee or Levi's and dislike Diesel jeans, thinking they look too bohemian and free-spirited.
These bandits never wear ties because the police wear ties. A true bandit has the collar of his shirt undone, be it rainy weather or severe frost, and the unbuttoned collar reveals a massive gold chain on his neck.
The larger the chain, the more important the man. It is also necessary for them to wear a lot of jewelry, like rings and signets.
Of course their BMW and Mercedes cars are high-quality, and they usually have fashionable flats, as a rule in the prestige district of the city, usually the Moskovsky District.
And now to the lowest stage in the bandit's table of ranks: they are the "bulls" -- infantry or fighters -- who are the soldiers of the criminal world, the former sportsmen or prison inmates.
They do the really dirty work, forcing people to pay debts, defending the rights of their band, resolving disputes and extorting money. After the ceremony of initiation, the recruit gets money for a car and clothes.
The bulls draw upon many variations of dress, but avoid anything that might be considered "homosexual." They prefer slacks, usually simple trousers with a crease down the front, which are worn wide and loose. Such slacks do not hinder movement during fighting and one can hide arms in them.
The bulls are allowed to have a foreign make of car, but usually they use our Ladas and Moskviches instead. In contrast to the brigade leader, a bull can wear only silver jewelry-chains, signets and rings and a silver bracelet to indicate blood type. They wear leather or cloth jackets from Amex, which are clothes usually advertised as being for the very strong -- definitely an image the bulls want to project.
Now you can tell these representatives from the criminal world. But if you are passing by what looks like a bandit on the street, don't stare at him. He will understand what you are thinking, and may then ask, "Do you need protection?"