The Liviada (l) palace where the "Big Three" -- Stalin, Roosevelt and Churchill -- met in 1945 is a must see for history buffs visiting Yalta. Yalta is full of the glories of Old Russia (r).

Beautiful Yalta offers potent mix of history and relaxation

By Alexander Janghorbani & Joshua Hall

Yalta has long been known as a haven for millions of Soviets from the rigors of everyday life.

Aside from its numerous spas and sanatoriums, this historic city offers the natural beauty of majestic mountains extending to the shore of the Black Sea.

After a trying 37-hour train ride to Simferopol station in the Ukraine, and a two-hour bus ride to Yalta, we sleepily disembarked at our final destination, energized by the view of palms and beach before us.

Finally, we settled into the hotel Oreanda, the only hotel catering to foreigners except for the Hotel Yalta.

Although both hotels were fairly comfortable and conveniently situated, customer service (such as banking, housekeeping and dining) may leave something to be desired for western tourists.

Having settled into our accommodations we inquired at the front desk about the downtown area and we discovered that it was but a five minute walk from the Oreanda.

Downtown Yalta consists of one long boardwalk full of kiosks, street vendors, bustle and intriguing possibilities. Although most of the wares are of the same variety found in St Petersburg, the outdoor, Black Sea setting creates an easygoing bazaar atmosphere.

Unfortunately, we were unable to find many student-priced restaurants ($10 or less), but we stumbled across a few outdoor bars with reasonably priced beer and wine, as well as an indoor wine tasting buffet.

The boardwalk also boasts a small carnival, with rides and a video arcade.

Wandering off the boardwalk, however, proved to be a rewarding experience as we discovered a series of outdoor restaurants which served shishkebabs, rice, beer and wines, all at reasonable prices.

Even more entertaining was a gondola ride for 200,000 coupons (about $1), which will take you over the city. This 20-minute ride provides a breathtaking view of the city, mountains, and city all in one sitting.

Also off the boardwalk is a small wax museum, which offers 30-minute tours reviewing dramatic events in Russian history. All tours are in Russian and the price for foreigners is about $4.

Although a relaxed stroll through the city itself will prove entertaining, Yalta's real beauty is hidden within the hills and mountains encircling the city.

Not only is this free of charge, but many enjoyable hours can be easily spent hiking or picnicking along the trails. Besides the hills immediately surrounding Yalta, we ventured away from the city in order to visit a few historic sights.

By far the easiest excursion to arrange is to the house where Anton Chekhov lived. A tour of this location is sure to enlighten even the most devoted fan of this famous Russian playwright. Classical music buffs can gawk at the piano which Rachmaninov played on several occasions, and all tourists can enjoy the simple house and its surroundings, which provided inspiration for much of Chekhov's work.

Tours are conducted only in Russian and tickets cost 300,000 coupons (about a $1.50) for this 45-minute tour.

For those with an interest in ancient history, tours can be booked for an all-day excursion to Bakhchisarai, a set of cave dwellings about three hours south of the city.

This trip includes a 45-minute hike uphill in order to see caves once occupied by Jewish settlers.

Information and booking requests can be made through the Intourist booth at the hotel Oreanda.

Perhaps more famous than Bakhchisarai is the Livadia palace, World War II meeting place of Stalin, Churchill, and Roosevelt.

This former tsarist summer palace encompasses a sprawling estate overlooking the Black Sea.

Since, as with most attractions, tours are only in Russian, it may be a good idea to hire your own translator.


TRAVEL ADVICE

GETTING THERE

The train to Simferopol takes 37 hours.

Cost (one-way) for foreigners is 281,000 roubles ($58) for second class and 535,000 roubles ($111) for first class. Costs for Russian citizens are only slightly cheaper, unless they opt for the "plaskart" class seat at 160,000 roubles ($33).

The plane to Simferopol (with Aeroflot) costs $144 for foreigners and 600,000 roubles ($125) for Russian citizens, one-way.

HOW TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD TRIP

Although not a city of the same magnitude as St Petersburg or Moscow, a few words of caution should be said about Yalta. This is not the place for all night revelry; most of the bars and clubs are very local and not so used to the presence of foreigners. The police will ask for identification if you are on the street late at night.

In addition, a basic knowledge of Russian is highly advisable. Although technically a part of the Ukraine, Yalta's vast majority speaks Russian and the city is still very much Russia-oriented. Unlike in St Petersburg, you will not find many signs labeled in English or many people with which to speak the language.

VISAS

Visas, which cost $50, can be obtained from the Ukraine embassy in Moscow. Their phone number is (095) 229 07 84.


© 1996 St Petersburg Press