Old meets very old in Ulan-Ude: Lenin's head (left)
and a Buddhist statue.
Winter in Siberia: not just for exiles
By Amanda Sprang
Old meets very old in Ulan-Ude: Lenin's head (left)
and a Buddhist statue.
Against the advice of many a respected friend, I bought a train ticket and set out to see the frozen land of western Siberia in January. I was not disappointed by what I saw.
Irkutsk is located about sixty kilometers (50 miles) from the southern tip of Lake Baikal. Lake Baikal is the largest freshwater lake in the world, holding about one-sixth of the earth's fresh water.
Through the city runs the Angara, the biggest river to flow from Baikal. Irkutsk is a large Siberian city, population 635,000, with a still very evident Soviet influence.
The main street is "Lenina," and when told from where I had come, the people there said "Ah, Leningrad...."
Their dress seems to have changed minimally, showing little, if any, influence from the West. About 70% of the women wear an unofficial uniform: a fur hat that echoes the Russian maiden head dress -- high above the forehead and then sloping down in the back; a fur neck muff, usually matching the fur of the hat; a long, straight coat; and finally, boots.
The men seem to have more variety in their dress, but almost without exception, they wear the standard fur hat. The farther east one travels, the more one sees of this unspoken dress code.
While the dress may seem to be reminiscent of a time before, the openness and helpfulness of the people is something that even a resident of polite St Petersburg will find surprising.
When stopping someone in the street to ask for directions, I found that it was rare to receive only a simple hand gesture. They explained carefully and graciously, often walking out of their way to get you started on the right street.
The pace of life is slower and people have time for a smile and a little conversation.
In Irkutsk, transportation is not a problem. The buses and trams run frequently, and either a driver or a passenger will always be willing to tell you which one you need.
The greatest difference is the rapid speed of the trams. Don't misjudge it when crossing the street.
The architecture of the city is an eclectic mix of small wooden houses, Russian Orthodox churches, Soviet housing projects, stadiums and stores, Golden Ring-type monasteries, and even a Gothic-style Catholic church.
The apartment buildings around the center are reminiscent of those in the old part of St Petersburg -- relatively low, with muted colors, small alleys, and neighborhood courtyards.
The most striking part of the city's architecture is the small wooden houses. They are multiple family dwellings, usually one or two stories high. Around the windows are intricate wood carvings, usually painted in a green or blue.
The windows are fairly large, and many of the residents have taken advantage of this by growing different fruits and vegetables in their homes. It is a stunning contrast to see these houses next to a cement Soviet monstrosity, such as the Intourist Hotel.
Two excursions from Irkutsk should be included in all travelers' plans: an hour's jaunt to Lake Baikal, and an overnight train trip to Ulan-Ude.
Even in its frozen whiteness, the southern tip of Lake Baikal is a magnificent sight. From the shore of the small fishing village Listvyanka, one can walk out onto the frozen lake. Ice as clear as this is a rarity. It is said that one can see fish swimming beneath the thick ice.
Near the shore is a myriad of triangular and different sized pieces of broken ice. They glow blue from the sky and are as clear as glass. The small mountains surrounding the shore are a welcome change form the flatlands of western Russia.
Be sure to try the omal, a fish unique to Baikal. One can buy the cans almost anywhere in Irkutsk or around the lake. Very juicy -- like white steak.
The second side trip from Irkutsk may turn out to be the most outstanding part of your trip. A night's ride on a train around the southern tip of Baikal will take you to the city of Ulan-Ude.
This is in the Buryati Republic of Russia, and perhaps 70% of the people there are Buryats. Ulan-Ude is an interesting and small city, with what has to be the largest statue of Lenin's head in the world. This should not (and cannot) be missed.
The main reason for going to Ulan-Ude, however, was to get on a bus and head to the Ivolginskii Datsan, the only Buddhist monastery allowed to operate in Soviet times. It is about forty kilometers (33 miles) from Ulan-Ude, located on the flats at the base of the foothills, in the seemingly middle of nowhere.
Inside the monastery are the two main temples, both a mysterious and wondrous sight against the vast Siberian sky. Colorful painted tigers guard the entrance to the main temple. The golden tops of the structures that house the sacred scrolls contrast with the snowy ground, and glow in the sun.
If you want to tangibly feel how immense Russia is, I would recommend taking the train to your destination. It is restful, soothing, scenic, and never dull. It gives you time to think about where you are going, and time to reflect upon your experiences when you return.
HOW? Train or plane. Russians can choose the type of train: luxury or normal. Foreigners are required to buy their tickets at the Intourist office in the train station and will pay more. Prices are: St Petersburg to Moscow, 75,000 roubles; Moscow to Irkutsk, 650,000 roubles (luxury train), 400,000 roubles (regular). Airline tickets, St Petersburg to Irkutsk, one-way, 990,000 roubles.
HOW TO GET THEREWHERE? There are three main hotels in Irkutsk: the Intourist ($21 a night for Russians, $55-90 for foreigners), the Angara (slightly less than at the Intourist), and the Rossiya (lowest prices, and you choose services such as a shower, phone or bath).
SIDE TRIPS? An hour bus ride to Listvyanka takes you to the shores of Baikal 28,000 roubles round-trip. An overnight train from Irkutsk to Ulan-Ude is is 127,000 roubles round-trip. A 40-minute bus ride to the Ivolginskii Datsan is 12,000 roubles round-trip.
See also The Russian Chronicles for another interesting report on a journey through Siberia.