Pizza secret revealed at the Verona

By Lloyd Donaldson

We have been keeping a secret from you for some time -- it's called the Verona Pizza Cafe.

The Verona, up on Suvorovsky Prospect, turns out a mean pizza in a plain but refreshingly pleasant environment.

Seven little round tables with flower-patterned tops sit on a crazy-path style floor. Cheery yellow lamp shades hang down low over each table. Peach-colored walls lend a cozy feel to the whole cafe.

Nothing is too loud, neither the decor nor the music. The place has the almost homely feel of a "hang-out," an impression confirmed by the casual atmosphere and the crowd that gathers.

The Verona is one of the new generation of St Petersburg cafes -- beyond the horrors of the Soviet era, but beyond also the over-priced hype of the early post-perestroika reaction.

It is pleasantly decorated in a distinctly understated way, it is staffed by pleasant and efficient people who obviously take pride in their work, it is reasonably priced, and the food is excellent. What's more, it doesn't close for lunch!

Ultimately of course the measure of a good pizzeria has to be the food -- so let's get to the pizzas.

They are of the wafer-thin crust variety. They are of generous proportion. They are also so delicious that I've already been back half a dozen times.

Someone has obviously studied the latest marketing techniques. Like condoms, the pizzas come only in regular and large sizes. But don't be daunted. The thin crusts make even a large pizza a manageable proposition for all but the most dainty of appetites.

Regular pizzas range from 12,000/14,500 roubles; large ones from 28,500/35,500.

There are about 10 different choices. They start with the "Julia," a modest ham, pineapple and oregano mix (12,000/14,500).

The Afredo (12,500/15,300) seems an odd mixture: "alami, tuny fish, onion and oregamo." Make of it what you will, but at least it was gratifying to see an English-language menu on the wall.

We ordered two regulars, a "Vegetarian" pizza (17,600/21,500 the large) and the "Napoli" (27,000/35,000).

The Vegetarian boasts tomatoes, olives, succulent mushrooms and yellow peppers. Pineapple, oregano and paprika give it kick. But best of all is the cheese. Don't ask me what sort of cheese it is, I'm not an expert. But I know enough to tell you that it smelled divine and tasted better.

But the Verona's masterpiece is the pizza Napoli (27,000/35,000). Its mixture of bacon, blue cheese, peach, shrimps and oregano stood out on the menu as perhaps being a little bold, but my dining companion went for it like a shot.

When it arrived it outshone my own delicious vegetarian pizza. We were so impressed that we ordered a second.

The even more adventurous can make up a witches' brew of their own by mixing-and-matching the various ingredients in a personalized pizza.

If you aren't in the pizza mood (and have somehow, nonetheless, ended up in this pizza cafe) there are other options.

Spaghetti bolognese and lasagna are on the menu, both for 15,000 roubles. If all that is not sinful enough, the french fries come as a side order for 7,000 roubles.

The totally faint at heart can take refuge in a few token standard items common to most Russian cafes, such as the salads (all off on our visit) or the sandwiches.

Because of the light nature of the pizzas and the prompt service, the Verona makes a great lunch venue. It could also serve as the spot for a casual dinner, or can supply take-out pizza.

Alcohols include martini, gin, wine and vodka. Beers available are Holstein and Koff. Teas, coffees and juices are also on the menu.

My only criticism would be a relatively minor one -- the Verona seems yet to discover the anchovy, which is sadly lacking from the menu. They should be encouraged, for who knows what exotic delight they could create with it.



© 1995 St Petersburg Press