When Freemasons ruled the land of the tsars

An exhibition of Russian Freemasonry at the Kazansky Cathedral's Museum of the History of Religion aims to break down myths and fears surrounding the mysterious religio-philosophic movement.

The small exhibition presents about 100 items connected with the movement's activity in Russia, including books, parchments, banners and symbols.

Explanatory material (all in Russian) says early groups of the later mysterious Masons were simply unions of bricklayers, carpenters and others who wanted to guard the basic secrets of their professions.

The exhibition has been assembled from the museum's archives. "It is good luck that the items were not destroyed during Soviet times," exhibition curator Marina Ptichina said. "We have the courage and cleverness of the museum's workers of those times to thank, they risked their lives to secret away and save in the huge cathedral many valuable religious items."

Four years ago the main hall of the cathedral, dating from 1811, was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church and services resumed after decades of silence.

Despite that, part of the cathedral has been left for religious exhibitions -- though the word "atheism" has been struck from the museum's former title.

The Masonic exhibition had a tough start. Father Sergei, the cathedral's senior priest, was against an exhibition about a non-Orthodox Christian religious movement. He relented when told by organizers that many great Russians had embraced Masonry, as well as being devout Christians. Included are the cathedral's architect, Andrey Voronikhin, and General Mikhail Kutuzov who repelled Napoleon's invasion and was later buried inside the cathedral.

The first Masonic lodge in Russia began in 1750 with the support of Englishman Captain James Phillips, though legend has it that even earlier Peter the Great became Russia's first Mason, during his tour of Europe.

Ms Ptichina said that by the beginning of the 19th century practically every Russian noble family included or were friends of a Masonic. There were 100 groups in the Russian Empire at the time.

Paradoxically, it was Tsar Alexander I, himself baptized a mason, who restricted Masonic activities in Russia in 1822.

What: Russian Freemasonry exhibition
Where: Museum of Religion, Kazansky Cathedral, 2 Kazanskaya Ploshchad (on Nevsky Prospect). Enter the basement exhibition from the right hand side of the cathedral.
Hours: 11 am -- 5 pm weekdays (except Wednesdays, closed), noon -- 5pm weekends. Continues until January 15.
Nearest Metro: Nevsky Prospect or Gostiny Dvor.