Unfathomable good taste Russian style

By Ali Nassor

Temperatures are already well below zero out there. Rush hour on the overcrowded transport system is even more hectic than the hectic day the commuters have had in their offices and factories.

At the bus stops frowns are the only expression as people steel themselves for the charge onto the bus. But those at one of the city's bus stop's hardly seem to realise that another Russia, that of warmth and hearty food, lies just one step away.

Behind the bus queue the "Russkaya Kukhnya" (Russian Kitchen) cafe, at 135 Nevsky Prospect, beckons to those who desire to avoid the maddening rush hour crowd.

On venturing inside I soon realized that the cuisine was Russian -- but with a difference as one babushka/waitress would soon let me know.

Among the hot snacks was blinchik c ikroi (pan-cakes with caviar) at 27,000 roubles ($6), the choice of my dining companion who was so impressed by its taste that she wanted more.

Mushrooms with sour cream were available at 15,000 roubles, but the dish is so common to every Russian cafe that I decided to be more adventurish. There was solyanka-domashnoye (a thick soup with meat) for 15,000 roubles ($3), but nor did "domashnoye" ("domestic") suit my appetite.

Also on offer was "Ukha monasterskaya" (which looked at first glance to translate as "monastery ear") at 18,000 roubles ($4) and Shchi krestyanskiye (cabbage soup), at 12,000 roubles ($3.50), the cheapest of the first-course dishes.

When I asked the waitress what exactly the ukha monasterskaya comprised of, she told me I had to become a Russian to understand it, but assured me it was "something of unfathomable good taste." (It is, as it happens, a fish soup).

In all events I went for salad stolichny at 17,000 roubles (about $4). Though the name was Russian, I noted that the dish has borrowed from international cuisine.

For a main I chose the skewered sturgeon, one of the most expensive dishes, but worth its 35,000 rouble ($7) price tag. My dining companion preferred the Tsar's trout (at the same price). Both meals arrived with a rich in variety of vegetables, making the Russkaya Kukhnya a possible option suitable for vegetarians as well.

On the other hand committed Jews and Muslims should beware the abundance of shashlik at the Russkaya Kukhnya, for who-so-ever eats of the shashlik shall be partaking of swine -- which is a pity because at 35,000 roubles ($7) it also looks like it could be worth breaking a few commandments.

I am assured that no Russian kitchen is complete without vodka. The Russkaya Kuhknya is no exception. There is quite a variety, including Stolichnaya and Smirnoff at 1,600 roubles and 3,000 roubles respectively per 50-gram shot.

Among the wines are French champagne at 11,750 roubles (about $2) for 100 grams, and "Paul Masson" wine for 6,200 ($1.50) per 100 grams. Black coffee and lemonade go for 2,000 roubles and 1,800 roubles (less than 50 cents).

I would not recommend anyone to go there expecting a traditional Russian cuisine. The name "Russkaya Kukhnya" is more symbolic than real -- what is on offer is Russian food within an international framework.

Appearances can also be deceptive. Although very clean, at first glance to judge by the small size and look of the place, the Russkaya Kukhnya strikes one as a cheap canteen.

But its service and style of dishes actually place it among the upper-middle class of cafes in the city. It is worth a visit.



© 1995 St Petersburg Press