A swirl of red and gold from Russian Color. (Russky Kolor)
A swirl of dancers in red and gold, shrieking and clapping, jumping head-over-heels and doing somersaults greets spectators every evening at the Nikolayevsky Palace.
Though it may sound like one, this is no circus -- this is traditional Russian folk dance, handed down from generation to generation since the time of Ivan the Terrible and the glory of ancient Rus.
Folk dance troupes are two-a-penny in Russia, but this one is the exception. The two groups which perform in the majestic and breathtaking setting of the palace's 12-columned white ballroom, are slick and professional and pay exceptional attention to historic detail.
Everything is perfect. The costumes, richly embroidered in gold reflect the traditional peasant and boyarina dress of 17th and 18th century Russia -- a Russia before the infusion of West European and classical ideas.
The dances originate from both northern and southern Russia and are accompanied by musical quartets using traditional folk instruments.
The evening's entertainment lasts two hours and is split into two distinct halves broken by a half-hour intermission. The first half concentrates on music and more restrained dance while the second half is positively wild and passionate.
Russki Color (Russian Color) start off the evening playing traditional melodies on two forms of stringed Russian national folk instruments: the dorma and the balalaika.
The group was formed in 1989 by four students from the St Petersburg Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory. All are young, two are brothers and the mixture of youth and their rich performance combined with their professional command of these instruments makes a potent and lively cocktail. They have good voices too and clearly move the audience with their lyrical and romantic love songs and sometimes spicy and upbeat numbers.
Then comes a group of five singers in traditional costumes. There are men in sort of tsarist police uniforms or perhaps officer's outfits serenading girls in red velvet and pink cotton dresses. This is pure courting-ritual set to music and is very touching and romantic.
The interval gives you ample opportunity to have a glass of champagne with a nibble of caviar, and to admire the elegant and sumptuous surroundings of one of the city's little-known palaces. The palace, which was called the Palace of Labor during the Communist era, is a superb blend of renaissance and baroque styles.
It was built for the third son of Russian Emperor Nicholas I over a period of eight years to the specific designs of German-born architect Andrei Stackenschneider.
The Grand Duke and Field-Marshal of the Russian Army lived in this comfortable and luxurious house with its stately reception rooms, chapel and stables for 30 years.
The palace walls hold the secrets of one of the most fascinating scandals of Imperial Russia. In the spring of 1891 the whole of court society was simply agog with tragic events surrounding the Grand Duke who went mad and died.
His widow, who lived in Kiev, refused even to attend the funeral. Nicholas was a terrible womanizer who never loved his wife and continued his debauched life of affairs up to his sudden death. Shortly before he died he went mad and was convinced that all women were in love with him.
His illness became evident at a ballet performance when he displayed himself to the ballet dancers then and there. Needless to say he was locked indoors. His long-suffering wife became a nun.
But enough of history. If you found the first half of the evening's lineup a marvel, wait until you see the second half. If you are susceptible to epilepsy or giddiness, leave the room! What these dancers can do is nobody's business and the acrobatics are definitely not something you should try at home!
There is a gypsy flavor to this part, with girls wildly banging tambourines, doing fouettes while men whoop, clap and do cartwheels and splits in front of them. Although the dancers and singers have probably done this a thousand times, they constantly smile, laugh and act with affecting spontaneity.
Out comes the accordion and the largest balalaika I have ever seen and the girls strut onto the stage waving bright and colorful braided shawls as if they were flags. Here recreated is a traditional peasant feast-day, and in an instant you can forget that you're sitting in a ball room and imagine yourself transported to some far-off country village, huddled around a campfire outside those wooden, onion-domed houses you saw in Fiddler on the Roof, or was it Dr Zhivago?
Talking of Dr Zhivago, we were treated to Lara's Theme as well as Kalinka, Dony Vecher and other recognizable classics. And the group even go in for acting and carry out this hilarious play where two men seek the hand of one woman who leads them, in both senses of the expression, on a song and dance for her affections.
After the performance, you have the chance to buy traditional costumes and shawls in the foyer along with other souvenirs and can pick up cassette tapes of the music played during the performance.
Lastly, as you sweep down the elegant marble staircase to the exit, take time to admire the interior decoration. You won't find plaster moldings like these in Macy's or your local home improvement store.
And as you make your grand exit, as scores of titled dukes and duchesses did a century before, you'll be wished a fond farewell by a bevy of beauties dressed in 18th century Catherine the Great style costumes complete with powdered wigs.
The Russian folk ensemble "The Stars of St Petersburg.