RESTAURANT REVIEW

Caucasus cellar

By Kit Vladmirov

The fact that Ulitsa Belinskovo is lined by five cafes on one side and a restauraunt with a cafe on the other makes it one of the best streets in St Petersburg for a bite to eat.

This little street -- only 100 meters long -- lies between Liteyny Prospect and the Fontanka river and is a stone's throw from the city's circus. At first glance, the casual stroller could easily be forgiven for missing a quaint Georgian restaurant in the street. After all, only its colorful stained glass windows depicting views of the former Soviet Georgian republic and an unclear metal sign with the words "Metekhi" give it away.

Take five steps down and you'll find yourself in a small basement restaurant with two bars and six modern tables. Meal orders are taken from the bar to the right while drinks are ordered from the bar to the left.

My companion and I ordered a bottle of mineral water and Pepsi (both costing 1500 roubles) as we looked at the menu, which is printed in both Russian and English.

Among the appetizers that we chose was a salty Georgian cheese Suluguni (3,500 roubles) that was served with parsley, which seemed to be a popular herb served up with dishes being enjoyed by those around us. My companion tucked into a Salad Marinade, with salt-preserved peppers, garlic and cucumbers (2,000 roubles) and fresh green salad with fresh tomato and cucumber (2,000 roubles). A cabbage salad rounded of the list of appertizers we tried, although according to the lady behind the bar they usually had a larger selection to choose from.

On the first glance at the menu, the diner is suprised by the restauraunt's low prices. It might be assumed by the more discerning gourmet that the quality could match the price. But don't be deceived. We were in for a tasty evening.

The Georgian speciality Satsivi was mouthwatering and succulent with pieces of tender chicken in a smooth creamy sauce rounded off with walnut and garlic dressing (6,500 roubles). Despite the fact my companion had not been particularly hungry, she soon gained her appetite.

Certainly the salty, marinated vegetables would whet the appetite of any diner. Our palate was further whetted by traditional Georgian rose wine Sachino -- a semi-sweet wine with a light fruity bouquet -- at 8,000 roubles per 0.75 liter bottle.

On the day we visited there was only this type of Georgian wine available in the restaurant alongside plenty of tasty and suprisingly cheap Russian beers (2,000 roubles per half liter) from the city's Baltika beer factory. It was served in the traditional and famous Russian round mugs.

We chose the Lobio Georgian wheat scone to go with our main dish. This is provided with every meal and is a kind of bread roll. Our meal included a choice of three soups, two of them called Harcho (8,000 roubles) and the other called Saus (12,000 roubles). Both are Georgian classic recipes.

Then came Golubtsi s myasom -- stewed meat (usually mutton) with rice and spices covered with smooth cabbage leafs -- and pancakes with meat (both 7,000 roubles). These go well with other items on the menu, including a fried pork chop with garnish (20,000 roubles) and fried chicken pieces (15,000 roubles).

Having satisfied one's hunger there is reason to have a snoop around the little basement cafe. The paintings adorning the walls depicting traditional Georgian scenes are worth a look. They are the work of city Academy of Art graduates in 1987 -- the year of the cafe opened.

The basement is graced with little alabaster statuettes of Georgian characters and a cow's horn that Caucasians use as a drinking cup. Bunches of artificial grapes create the impression of a Georgian wine cellar with a low ceiling surrounded by panoramic Georgian views.

Tea (1500 roubles) and coffee (2000 roubles) are the least popular drinks in the cafe since patrons prefer to sit there at their leisure washing down the sharp, salty Georgian food with stronger alcoholic drinks.