Oh Boy! do I need a drink

by Tara Maginnis

The Poluostrovsky Rynok near Finland Station undergoes a transformation each weekend into the Ptichy Rynok, or Bird Market.

But birds aren't the only thing sold there. The market sells tropical fish, canaries, parrots, turtles, chihuahuas, and gerbils -- all creatures better suited to warmer climes than northern St Petersburg.

The fish are kept in small, uniquely designed tanks with huge metal heating units beneath them. These units keep the fish living at the tropical temperature they need. You can also buy aquariums.

The birds live in heated boxes, but as birds are territorial creatures, they seem to be more irritated by the over-crowding than are the more sociable animals like the puppies and kittens, who quite happily snooze piled on top of each other in plexiglass boxes.

The thoroughbreds in their plusher boxes look comfortable and contented, and seem to know that they are in a more privileged position than the dogs and cats stuffed into coat breasts.

Outside the main gate is a line of people hoping to make a small profit from their pets' amorous indiscretions. People stand about talking, each with the head of a tiny cat or dog protruding from their lapels.

Animals range from lethargic to complaining to simply cold. Thoroughbreds and mutts intermix, but papers are rare, and this is the cheapest section of the market.

Inside are the professional dealers selling thoroughbred dogs and cats, mostly displayed in their heated plexiglass containers. This section also includes various rodents like mice, rats, gerbils and hamsters, although there are no rabbits.

The market then splits off into two rows -- one for pet food, bird-cages and birds, and the other with the fish, snails, frogs, and assorted accoutrements. There are tanks and air pumps from every place from Japan to Poland, live worms, and a great selection of aquatic plants.

The bird section has its craftsmen who make simple, beautiful cages for only 4000 roubles. For more money you can get imported Asian pagoda- style cages, as well as an assortment of small birds to go in them. This section too has a wide selection of imported animal feeds and pet toys.

Here too is a big dealer in dog harnesses, collars and various leashes, from the simple to the massive spiked collars imported from Germany. You can get a delicate little poodle collar and retractable lead.

If you are not planning on staying in Russia for long and want to take your pet back home, you should get information on importing animals abroad from your consulate and airline.

Most airlines charge an extra fee for your pet's "plane ticket" because pets cannot be handled or stored with the luggage in an unheated, un-pressurized hold. You should also make yourself aware of customs regulations for any country in which you have a stopover.